Malamig Brew Episode 4: Brazil Capricórnio Royal Arabica Cold Brew Review — Allo Coffee Roasters
Why the most inoffensive bean in the lineup might also be the most useful
Arabica Brazil Capricórnio (Cold Brew)
So far, we’ve established a baseline with Starbucks Pike Place. It’s an all-arounder, loved and understood by millions of people around the world. It’s roasted darker. Purists would say that’s to hide flaws in the bean blend; more pragmatically, it’s for consistency and a bigger punch. Most people like a full, robust cup.
From there, we moved to two local single-origin Arabicas. Arabica is more sought after partly because of scarcity: it’s harder to grow and source, and it thrives at higher elevations where the fruit takes longer to mature. Both Philippine beans were very different from Pike Place. More delicate. More fruit-forward. The sweetness felt subtler but more elevated. Lighter overall, which made for a good contrast.
Even between the two—Atok Benguet Arabica and Sultan Kudarat Arabica—there were clear differences. The quality of the sweetness. The strength and character of the fruitiness. Elevation and climate showed up in the cup in quiet but noticeable ways.
And now, we venture back outside the Philippines. Still Arabica, but this time from a different terroir: Brazil Capricórnio.
First impressions: nothing announces itself. Nothing strong. I immediately understand why this is considered drinkable. There’s no sharpness, no edge, nothing that grabs your attention. The sweetness is muted. Acidity is basically non-existent.
If there’s anything to latch onto, it’s in the finish. A slight hint of acidity. Vague milk chocolate. But even those feel restrained, almost shy.
Overall, this is my least favorite so far.
Not because it’s bad. I’d call it inoffensive. There’s just not much character. And I completely get why this bean is often used in blends.
My mom makes a chicken-potato salad, and we often tease her that the apples are “extenders.” She always pushes back, saying it’s not an extender because apples are more expensive than potatoes. This feels like that. It’s not an extender in a way that obviously cuts costs (or maybe it is, I honestly don’t know), but flavor-wise and drinkability-wise, it plays that role. It smooths things out. It makes things easier to drink.
It’s not bad. It’s a little more than okay.
To be honest, I went through this cup really quickly. A cup of cold brew usually lasts me about two hours. This one was gone in thirty minutes. I kept tasting, partly because I was trying to find the flavors and notes that weren’t immediately there.
I think I’ll end up mixing the rest of these beans with others. I’m a bit disappointed, but I guess this is part of the process. Actually, this is the process.
And for that reason alone, I’m still glad I went through it.
